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Asturias, Spain

10-day road trip in northern Spain

21 December 2023

To extend the summer and its pleasant temperatures throughout September, we headed to Spain from Brussels. Our car, equipped with a WOLO Outdoors rooftop tent, and over 1,000 kilometers later, we are now in Spain!

We're here to discover the north of Spain, and more specifically, the Principality of Asturias. Ultimately, the trip itself transformed into a journey, and we strayed from the planned route to discover a variety of landscapes we hadn't anticipated. Ready to join us?

Traveling with a WOLO Outdoors rooftop tent

For this trip, we were accompanied by WOLO Outdoors: a Liège-based brand selling and renting rooftop tents that we had already had the opportunity to test during a weekend in Belgium.

We had heard a lot of good things about vanlife in Spain, its renowned spots and sunny weather. And we thought it was the perfect opportunity to go on a longer trip with a rooftop tent. Verdict: we loved it!

Even though the weather wasn't perfect (we can assure you that the tent is very waterproof), on some nights we slept on parking lots; we always felt safe. The cherry on the cake were these spots in the heart of nature, by a river, cliffs or even in a desert. These spots where you stand open-mouthed watching the sunset or observing the Milky Way.

From a practical point of view, you need to be well-organized. We once again had WOLO Outdoors camping kit, which is perfect for all camping equipment. Then, we had a bag with our clothes, another with photo equipment, our duvet, our pillows and 2-3 plastic boxes for chargers, cooking spices, etc. All of this in an Audi A3!

Roof tent WOLO Outdoors on an Audi A3
Roof tent WOLO Outdoors on an Audi A3 with the Milky Way in the background.

Comfort level, the tent mattress was just as comfortable for 2 days as for 10, and our duvet was enough despite some nights spent below 10°C. We alternated throughout the trip between nature spots, camping nights, and hotel stays to regain some comfort (especially a hot shower and real toilets 😇).

Tent roof WOLO Outdoors on an Audi A3 at nightfall
Interior of the WOLO Outdoors rooftop tent
Interior
Kitchen on a Campingaz stove

👉 Embark on an adventure with WOLO Outdoors

If you have any other questions about rooftop tent travel, feel free to leave a comment below. We'd be happy to answer them!

Our itinerary and must-sees in northern Spain

Day 1 – Yesa Reservoir

For our first night in Spain, we stopped at the Yesa Reservoir. An artificial dammed lake in the Pyrenees. Normally a turquoise blue, it was replaced by dry, cracked earth. Only a small stream flowed at the bottom. One of the marks left by the drought that hit all of Europe this summer.

On the shores of the lake, there are hot springs in which you can swim. Unfortunately, we weren't able to go there, as the weather was stormy and there was rain.

Dam of Yesa in the north of Spain
Dam of Yesa

Day 2 – Playa de Canallave

We leave the rain of the Spanish Pyrenees for the grey clouds of the Atlantic coast. After two days of driving, we stop at Playa Canallave west of Santander. On this wild beach, with fine sand despite a few rocks on the beach, it's the surfers' paradise! While they catch the best waves, their dog patiently waits on the beach for their sessions to end. On our side, we take the time to breathe in the sea spray and savour the beginning of our holidays.

Playa de Canallave
Surfer on the Playa de Canallave
Playa de Canallave

Practical information

🅿️ Free Parking

🚿 Public Showers

🍴 Small Restaurant

In the afternoon, we continue our journey to get a little closer to the Principality of Asturias. We will stop at the Camping de Las Arenas, located in the small village of Pechón, on the border between Cantabria and Asturias. It is located on the edge of the ocean and at the mouth of the Ría de Tina Mayor and the terraced pitches offer a wide choice to enjoy the view. In addition to hot showers, we can enjoy their outdoor pool and the Las Arenas beach. We will finally spend 3 nights there, to recharge our batteries and wait for the rain to pass.

Book my stay in Las Arenas
Camping Las Arenas at Pechón
Camping Las Arenas in Pechón
Camping Las Arenas at Pechón

Sleeping at Camping Las Arenas in Pechón

📍 Ctra, Km. 2, 39594 Pechón, Cantabria, Spain

💦 Swimming pool & beach

💰 For info, we paid €94 for our 3 nights.

ℹ️ Info & Reservations: Camping Las Arenas

Day 3 – Discovering Ribadesella, Llanes and swimming at Playa de Ballota

Visit Ribadesella

Typical Asturian village, Ribadesella is known for its environment as beautiful as atypical. We spent half a day strolling through the town, climbing to the Ermita de La Guía and discovering the most beautiful views.

Visiting Llanes

A few kilometers from Ribadesella, we also discovered the historic village of Llanes. Its old town center with its colorful houses and wooden shopfronts charmed us as much as its small fishing port. Don't hesitate to continue your journey to the Llanes lighthouse to discover the town's letters and its intimate beach.

Swimming at Ballota beach

The day having started under the rain, this large blue sky of the afternoon was the perfect opportunity to slow down the pace and enjoy one of the beautiful beaches of the Asturias. Just 15 minutes by car from Llanes are the magnificent beaches: Playa de Ballota and Playa de Andrín.

Our choice fell on Playa de Ballota and we did not regret it! The water is turquoise, the sand is fine and the scenery is straight out of Thailand between the red rocks of the cliffs and lush vegetation.

Playa de Ballota
Playa de Ballota
Playa de Ballota
Ballota Beach

Practical information

🚿 No showers available

🅿️ Free parking (Caution! Path to the parking lot and limited spaces)

📍 Parking address: Cam. Ballota, 33596, Asturias, Spain

Day 4 – Pechón, a little paradise in Cantabria

After a rainy morning at the Las Arenas campsite, we take advantage of a small break in the weather to explore the surroundings. We walk from the campsite to the village of Pechón.

Pechón Town Centre

Our arrival in Pechón is calm. We wander through the empty streets, except for a few cats, looking for a small open restaurant to fill our rumbling stomachs. After several disappointments due to closed establishments, we find ourselves at the Café/Bar La Cambera.

All the village's activity is here, hot dishes come out of the kitchens and the beer flows freely. A burger for Romain and a salad for me ‘Por Favor’. In Spain, English isn't very common, so we babble the names of the dishes in Spanish accompanied by gestures to make ourselves understood. It seems to work, our order arrives at the table. A warm address to recommend to you if you are passing through the area.

Man walking on the road towards Pechón
En route to Pechón
White house of the village of Pechón
Signs indicating that one arrives at the village of Pechón
Houses made of stone typical of the village of Pechón in Spain

Amio Beach

Definitely the most beautiful beach in Pechón with its rocky islet in the center and its wide stretches of fine sand at low tide. Right next to it is its little sister, Playa de Arama.

Country of Amio
Country of Amio
Country of Amio

Practical information

🅿️ Free parking here.

🚿 Public showers

Wooden Bank

Don't hesitate to visit the Banco de Madera, which offers a magnificent view of Playa de Amio and Arama. Unfortunately for us, the vegetation had grown a lot and the panorama wasn't as impressive as in the photos.

For vanlife enthusiasts, overnight stays are permitted on the Banco de Madera parking lot, and we know how hard it is to find overnight spots in the area.

Day 5 – Hike from Poncebos to Bulnes in the Pics d'Europe

We leave the Atlantic coast to delve into the interior for a few days and discover the famous Picos de Europa. A change of atmosphere and temperature, it quickly gets cooler once the sun hides behind the clouds.

Departing from Poncebos, we take a walk of approximately 4 kilometers to reach the famous village of Bulnes, perched in the mountains and cut off from the rest of the world. A beautiful hike, with quite a bit of elevation gain, perfect for soaking up the mountain atmosphere. For more information, we include below the link to the full article of our weekend in the Picos de Europa.

The region is quite popular with tourists compared to the coast, so it was very crowded at the start of the hike. We recommend staying nearby and arriving before 9am in Poncebos to get a parking space within 2 kilometers. We slept in the public parking lot a few kilometers from there. Again, the spot is popular, so feel free to go there in the late afternoon to find a flat place to spend the night.

Our sleeping spot in Poncebos
Bivouac in rooftop tent WOLO outdoors Poncebos in the Peaks of Europe
Bivouac in rooftop tent WOLO outdoors Poncebos in the European Peaks

Day 6 – Visit to the sanctuary, basilica and Covadonga lakes

The Sanctuary and Basilica of Covadonga in Cangas de Onís

To reach Covadonga, we take the 1.5 km tourist trail from parking P3. There are smaller parking lots closer by, but this one allows us to spend the night there, which is rare in the region. On site, we discover the magnificent neo-gothic basilica of Covadonga with its red stones, standing in the middle of the mountains.

Trees in flower at Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Basilica of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Trees in flower at Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Basilica of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Basilica of Covadonga

A little further down, we can observe the Sanctuary of Covadonga, or Santa Maria de la Cueva, and its small troglodyte chapel. An important place of worship where hundreds of believers gather every year.

Sanctuary of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Sanctuary of Covadonga
Sanctuary of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Sanctuary of Covadonga
Garden of the Prince at Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Garden of the Prince

Lakes of Covadonga

The Lakes of Covadonga are a must-see in Asturias and the Picos de Europa. Highly popular, the road to access them is subject to certain restrictions during the day. Here we are aboard the bus shuttle to reach the famous Ercina and Enol Lakes. On site, we did a hike of just over 5 kilometers that passes through both lakes. This is truly accessible to everyone and allows you to get away from the tourist areas surrounding the two lakes. A total immersion at over 1000 meters of altitude in the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park.

Lake Eracina at Covadonga in the European Peaks
Lake Eracina
Lake Eracina at Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Mountain cow at Covadonga in the European Peaks
Mina de Buferrera to Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Mine of Buferrera
Lake Enol at Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Lake Enol

Our bivouac spot in Covadonga 🏕️

Parking 3, located at the entrance to the village of Covadonga, is a convenient option for motorhomes, camper vans, and rooftop tents. It may not be aesthetically pleasing, but it offers the advantage of being free in the off-season and is very close to the Covadonga Basilica, which is within walking distance.

Day 7 – Trip to Cangas de Onis, the Fitu viewpoint and night by the Atlantic Ocean

Cangas de Onís

We discovered Cangas de Onis and all its activity the previous evening to find a still-open supermarket in the region. At the foot of the Picos de Europa National Park, it also includes a rich cultural heritage. We stopped there for lunch to eat and form our own opinion about this tourist town.

We had dinner at La Fábrika and a major disappointment, we didn't enjoy it at all (neither the food nor the service). To comfort ourselves, we indulged in an artisanal ice cream at Cremela. The flavors were excellent, we totally recommend the place for a sweet break. Ice cream cone in hand, we strolled through the streets of Cangas de Onis to the famous Roman bridge or the Puentón.

The Fitu viewpoint

The Mirador del Fitu is a must-see in the region, where you can enjoy a 360° panorama from its old concrete watchtower. From there you can see the Sueve Nature Reserve, the Ponga Nature Park, the Picos de Europa National Park and also the coast with the villages of Ribadesella, Caravia, Colunga and Villaviciosa. Let's just say the view must be spectacular!

We had spotted a park4night spot to spend the night there and enjoy the sunset, starry sky and sunrise. Unfortunately, there was a sporting event that day and the road was closed until 9 pm. So we sadly missed our chance to visit the mirador del Fitu.

Moniello Recreation Area

Following the failed attempt at Mirador de la Fitu, we found a spot to spend the night on the Asturian coast. Welcome to the Moniello recreational area! At the end of it, there's a small gravel parking lot where overnight stays are permitted, facing the sea. A popular spot, judging by the number of vans that joined us during the evening. And we understand why! We're on the edge of a protected area that offers several hiking trails to explore the surrounding cliffs. We enjoyed beautiful colors at the end of the day and a sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean, nothing more magical ✨

Recreational area of Moniello in a rooftop tent
Recreational area of Moniello
Recreation area of Moniello

Our bivouac spot in Moniello 🏕️

Located on the waterfront, the Moniello recreation area is perfect for drifting off to sleep lulled by the sound of the waves. Be sure to arrive early, even during the off-season, as spots are popular.

📍 Our sleeping spot in Moniello

Day 8 – Playon de Bayas, Cudillero and Cabo Vidio

Playon de Bayas

Nothing beats settling onto a deserted beach to start the day! At Playon de Bayas, the perfect surf waves and dark sand stretch for several kilometers of beach, meaning you'll easily find space without having to cram next to your beach neighbor.

Along the way, don't hesitate to stop at the viewpoint to enjoy a magnificent panorama of Payon de Bayas and Playa Requexinos. The Google Maps point is right here.

Playa Requexinos
Playa Requexinos
Playa Requexinos
Panorama from the Mirador

Practical information

🅿️ Free on-site parking here.

🚿 Public showers

Cudillero

One of the images that comes back most often when talking about Asturias is the **small fishing village of Cudillero**. The particularity of this historic village is to be in a basin facing the sea. We spent the early afternoon **walking through the narrow streets** and finding **the best viewpoints** over the village. We give you all the information about Cudillero in the article below.

Cape Vidio

We stopped for a short time at Cabo Vidio to enjoy the exceptional views of the surrounding cliffs and the Pena Doria beach and the Cueva beach. There are several exceptional viewpoints in the area, Kevmrc Travel has listed them in an article. The light at Cabo Vidio is even more beautiful when the sun sets.

Cabo Vidio in the Asturias

One night at the Antiguo Casino Hotel de Pravia

Small exception to the rooftop tent for this last night in the Asturias. We found a lovely boutique hotel in Pravia located inland. A comfortable night (long live hot water and toilets) in the heart of this historic city. Our charming room at the Antiguo Casino Hotel overlooked the Santa María la Mayor church directly.

View availabilities
Boutique Hotel, Old Casino in Pravia, Asturias
Boutique Hotel Ancient Casino in Pravia in the Asturias
Boutique Hotel, Old Casino, in Pravia, Asturias

Practical information

💸 Starting from €83 per night for a double room

🥐 Full breakfast included in the price

🅿️ Free parking in front of the hotel

🔍 Info & Reservations available on Booking

Day 9 – Mirador Punta de la Negra, Navarre

Our road trip in Northern Spain is slowly coming to an end. After 6 hours of driving and crossing several regions, we encounter the Pyrenees, the desert landscapes, and the heat.

For the 10th day, a visit to the famous Bardenas Reales desert awaits us. We find a spot on park4night (really the best ally for your tent roof, van, or campervan road trips) in the region to be near the park. After 4 kilometers of tracks, we arrive at the Mirador Punta de la Negra. We are alone, except for a few vultures dancing in the sky, the sun sets slowly in the valley offering us an incredibly pure sky with orange colors.

Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Vulture in flight
Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Viewpoint Punta de la Negra at night in Navarre in the north of Spain
Viewpoint Punta de la Negra at night in Navarre in the north of Spain

OUR CAMPING SPOT in the Bardenas Desert 🏕️

Night driving is not allowed in the Bardenas Reales, so we found a spot on the edge of this magnificent natural park. The road to get there is a 4-kilometer track, but completely doable without a 4x4. We were the only ones at this spot for the night.

📍 Our sleeping spot at Mirador Punta de la Negra

Day 10 – Visit to the Bardenas Reales Desert

Waking up early, we weren't expecting the day ahead. After breakfast, we packed up the tent as usual. Almost, that is, this time the car keys remained inside the tent. Quick, open it up, grab the keys, and close it again. This time, it's good! It took us almost an hour to reach the Visitor Center of the Bardenas Reales and the entrance to the most beautiful part, 'Blanca Baja'. The explanations were given, the park map was taken, and the adventure could begin!

Incidentally, we dedicated a whole article to it, with details of all the spots to stop at in the Baja Blanca of the Bardenas Reales.

Where to sleep in the Bardena Desert 🏕️

Night is forbidden in the Bardenas Reales, so we continued our journey a little further north, where we spotted a place at the foot of the Ermita de Santo Domingo. Accessible only via tracks (which don't require a 4x4), we spent a quiet night under the stars.

🏕 Our sleeping spot at the Ermita de Santo Domingo

Thank you for coming this far! We loved our road trip in northern Spain. A region that still feels untouched by mass tourism, where it's easy to get off the beaten path. We hope this article gives you the desire to visit Spain. Don't hesitate to leave a comment if you have any questions or simply to tell us if you liked the article 😉

Thanks to WOLO Outdoors for lending us the tent for the duration of our stay.

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