Hike to Bulnes in the Pics d'Europe

After an early morning wake-up a few kilometers from the departure, we arrive in Poncebos around 9:00 AM. It's the weekend and the hustle and bustle is already quite noticeable, as it's also the starting point of the famous Rutas del Cares hike. Luckily, we easily find parking just above the funicular departure and near the start of the hike.

We walk a few meters on gravel before leaving the crowds by turning onto the hiking trail leading to Bulnes. We quickly reach the Puente del Zardo (a pretty wooden bridge) which takes us to the other side of the Rio Tejo, the stream we will follow upstream to Bulnes.

We spend the next few kilometers scrambling over rocks and admiring the surrounding scenery. The hiking trail to reach Bulnes is rarely flat (500 m of positive elevation gain) but with good shoes and frequent stops, it is quite accessible.

Our hike is dotted with encounters with birds, goats, and a few cows. We cross the shepherd who has come to retrieve them with his dog, a moment of local life that we are not about to forget.

We arrive in Bulnes via the Bar Mirador Lallende. This is part of Bulnes Arriba, the upper part of the village. We take time to breathe and enjoy this exceptional view of the rocky mountains surrounding us. The sky clears at the same time and offers us the first rays of sunshine of the day. We observe the circling vultures dancing along the sunny rock faces before descending a few meters lower and having a picnic in the sun.

We are calmly descending towards Bulnes de Abajo (La Villa), the lower part of the village. We stroll through the few streets, with traditional stone houses, that make up Bulnes. We find hikers and other tourists on the sunny terraces of the small taverns.

We stop at El Redondin Casa Rafa to drink a fresh coca-cola before returning to the car.

Our tips for hiking from Poncebos to Bulnes? Plan the hike on a weekday, get up early to avoid crowds and find a parking space not too far from the starting point.

The first possibility (and the oldest) to reach Bulnes is by hiking. A round trip from Poncebos of a little over ten kilometers (without counting the visit to the village).

Since 2001, it has been possible to reach Bulnes via the funicular. The journey takes about ten minutes. Unfortunately, it offers no views of the surroundings; it is purely an underground journey.

If you visit the Picos de Europa with a van or rooftop tent, we recommend the public parking which is near the start of the Bulnes and Rutas del Cares hikes. The Picos de Europa are heavily regulated and sleeping outside authorized areas is prohibited.

We were amazed by this hike in the European Peaks. We hope to have inspired you for future adventures. 🌿

You can also find the full itinerary of our road trip in northern Spain in the link below.

👉  10-day road trip in northern Spain