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Asturias, Spain

Road trip of 10 days in the north of Spain

21 December 2023

To extend the summer and its pleasant temperatures during the month of September, we headed to Spain from Brussels. Our car, equipped with a WOLO Outdoors rooftop tent, and more than 1,000 kilometers later, we are now in Spain!

We are here to discover the north of Spain, and more specifically the principality of Asturias. Ultimately, the trip itself transformed into a journey, and we strayed off the marked paths to discover a variety of landscapes we hadn't anticipated. Ready to join us?

Traveling with a WOLO Outdoors rooftop tent

For this trip, we were accompanied by WOLO Outdoors: a Liège-based brand selling and renting rooftop tents that we had already had the opportunity to test during a weekend in Belgium.

We had heard a lot of good things about vanlife in Spain, its renowned spots and its sunny weather. And we thought that the opportunity was perfect to leave for a longer period with a rooftop tent. Verdict: we loved it!

Even if the weather wasn't perfect (we can assure you that the tent is waterproof) some evenings, we slept on parking lots; we always felt safe. The cherry on the cake was these spots in the heart of nature, by a river, cliffs or even in a desert. These spots where you stand open-mouthed facing the sunset or observing the Milky Way.

From a practical point of view, you need to be well organized. We again had WOLO Outdoors' camping kit, which is perfect for all camping gear. Then we had a bag with our clothes, another one with photo equipment, our duvet, our pillows and 2-3 plastic boxes for chargers, cooking spices, etc. All this in an Audi A3!

Roof tent WOLO Outdoors on an Audi A3
Roof tent WOLO Outdoors on an Audi A3 with the Milky Way in the background.

Comfort level, the tent mattress was just as comfortable for 2 days as for 10, and our duvet was sufficient despite some nights spent below 10°C. Throughout the trip, we alternated between nature spots, camping nights, and hotel stays to occasionally regain some comfort (mostly a hot shower and proper toilets 😇).

Tent roof WOLO Outdoors on an Audi A3 at nightfall
Interior of the WOLO Outdoors rooftop tent
Interior
Kitchen on a Campingaz stove

👉 Going on an adventure with WOLO Outdoors

 

If you have any other questions about rooftop tent travel, feel free to leave a comment below. We'd be happy to answer them!

Our itinerary and must-sees in northern Spain

Day 1 – Yesa Reservoir

For our first night in Spain, we stopped at the Yesa Reservoir. An artificial dam lake in the Pyrenees. This one, usually turquoise blue, gave way to dry, cracked earth. Only a small stream flowed in the background. One of the marks left by the drought that hit all of Europe this summer.

On the shores of the lake, there are hot springs where you can swim. Unfortunately, we were not able to spend time there, as the stormy weather and rain were present.

Dam of Yesa in the north of Spain
Dam of Yesa

Day 2 – Playa de Canallave

We leave the rain of the Spanish Pyrenees for the grey clouds of the Atlantic coast. After two days of driving, we stop at Playa Canallave west of Santander. On this wild beach, with fine sand despite a few rocks on the beach, it's the surfers' paradise! While they catch their best wave, their dog waits patiently on the beach for their sessions to end. On our side, we take the time to breathe in the sea spray and savor the beginning of our vacation.

Playa de Canallave
Surfer on the Playa de Canallave
Playa de Canallave

practical information

🅿️ Free Parking

🚿 Public Showers

🍴 Cafe/Small Restaurant

In the afternoon, we continue our journey to get a little closer to the Principality of Asturias. We will stop at the Camping de Las Arenas, located in the small village of Pechón, on the border between Cantabria and Asturias. It is located on the edge of the ocean and at the mouth of the Ría de Tina Mayor, and the terraced pitches offer a wide choice for enjoying the view. In addition to hot showers, we can enjoy their outdoor pool and the Las Arenas beach. We will spend 3 nights there, to recharge our batteries and wait for the rain to pass.

Reserve my stay in Las Arenas
Camping Las Arenas at Pechón
Camping Las Arenas in Pechón
Camping Las Arenas at Pechón

Sleeping at Camping Las Arenas in Pechón

📍 Ctra, Km. 2, 39594 Pechón, Cantabria, Spain

💦 Swimming pool & beach

💰 For info, we paid €94 for our 3 nights.

ℹ️ Info & Reservations: Camping Las Arenas

Day 3 – Discovering Ribadesella, Llanes and swimming at Playa de Ballota

Visit Ribadesella

Typical Asturian village, Ribadesella is known for its beautiful and unusual surroundings. We spent half a day strolling through the town, climbing to the Ermita de La Guía and discovering the most beautiful views.

Visiting Llanes

A few kilometers from Ribadesella, we also discovered the historic village of Llanes. Its old town centre with its colourful houses and wooden shop fronts charmed us as much as its small fishing port. Don't hesitate to continue your journey to the Llanes lighthouse to discover the city's letters and its intimate beach.

Swimming at Ballota beach

The day having started under the rain, this large blue sky of the afternoon was the perfect opportunity to slow down the pace and enjoy one of the beautiful beaches of the Asturias. Just 15 minutes by car from Llanes are the beautiful beaches: Playa de Ballota and Playa de Andrín.

Our choice fell on the Playa de Ballota and we did not regret it! The water is turquoise, the sand is fine and the scenery is straight out of Thailand between the red rock cliffs and lush vegetation.

Playa de Ballota
Playa de Ballota
Playa de Ballota
Ballota Beach

practical information

🚿 No showers available

🅿️ Free parking (Caution! Path to reach parking and limited spaces)

 📍 Parking address: Cam. Ballota, 33596, Asturias, Spain

Day 4 – Pechón, a little paradise in Cantabria

After a rainy morning at the Las Arenas campsite, we take advantage of a brief break in the weather to explore the surroundings. We walk from the campsite to the village of Pechón.

Pechón Town Centre

Our arrival in Pechón is quiet. We wander through the empty streets, except for a few cats, looking for a small open restaurant to fill our rumbling stomachs. After several disappointments due to closed establishments, we end up at the Café/Bar La Cambera.

All the village's activity is here, hot dishes come out of the kitchens and beer flows freely. A burger for Romain and a salad for me 'Por Favor'. In Spain, English isn't very common, so we babble the names of the dishes in Spanish, accompanied by gestures to make ourselves understood. It seems to work, our order arrives at the table. A warm address to recommend to you if you are passing through the area.

Man walking on the road towards Pechón
En route to Pechón
White house of the village of Pechón
Signs indicating that one arrives at the village of Pechón
Houses made of stone typical of the village of Pechón in Spain

Amio Beach

Certainly the most beautiful beach in Pechón with its rocky islet in the center and its wide expanses of fine sand at low tide. Right next to it is its little sister, the beach of Arama.

Country of Amio
Country of Amio
Country of Amio

practical information

🅿️  Free parking here.

🚿  Public showers

Wooden Bank

Don't hesitate to visit the Banco de Madera, which offers a magnificent view of Playa de Amio and Arama. Unfortunately for us, the vegetation had grown considerably and the panorama wasn't as impressive as in the photos.

For vanlife enthusiasts, overnight stays are permitted on the Banco de Madera parking lot, and we know how hard it is to find overnight spots in the region.

Day 5 – Hike from Poncebos to Bulnes in the Pics d'Europe

We leave the Atlantic coast to delve into the interior for a few days and discover the famous European Peaks. A change of atmosphere and temperature, it quickly gets cooler once the sun hides behind the clouds.

Departing from Poncebos, we set off on a walk of approximately 4 kilometers to reach the famous village of Bulnes, perched in the mountains and cut off from the rest of the world. A beautiful hike, with quite a bit of elevation gain, perfect for soaking up the mountain atmosphere. For more information, we've included a link below to the complete article about our weekend in the European Peaks.

The region is quite popular with tourists compared to the coast, so it was very crowded at the start of the hike. We recommend staying nearby and arriving before 9am in Poncebos to get a parking space within 2 kilometers. We slept in the public parking lot a few kilometers from there. Again, the spot is popular, so feel free to go there in the late afternoon to find a flat place to spend the night.

Our sleeping spot in Poncebos
Bivouac in rooftop tent WOLO outdoors Poncebos in the Peaks of Europe
Bivouac in rooftop tent WOLO outdoors Poncebos in the European Peaks

Day 6 – Visit to the sanctuary, basilica and Covadonga lakes

The Sanctuary and Basilica of Covadonga in Cangas de Onís

To access Covadonga, we take the 1.5 km tourist trail from parking P3. There are smaller parking areas closer by, but this one allows us to spend the night there, which is rare in the region. On site, we discover the magnificent neo-gothic basilica of Covadonga with its red stones, standing amidst the mountains.

Trees in flower at Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Basilica of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Trees in flower at Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Basilica of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Basilica of Covadonga

A little further down, we can observe the Covadonga Sanctuary, or Santa Maria de la Cueva, and its small cave chapel. An important place of worship where hundreds of believers gather each year.

Sanctuary of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Sanctuary of Covadonga
Sanctuary of Covadonga in the peaks of Europe
Sanctuary of Covadonga
Garden of the Prince at Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Garden of the Prince

Lakes of Covadonga

The Lakes of Covadonga are a must-see in Asturias and the Picos de Europa. Highly popular, the road to access them is subject to certain restrictions during the day. Here we are aboard the bus shuttle to reach the famous Ercina and Enol Lakes. On site, we did a hike of just over 5 kilometers that passes by the 2 lakes. This is truly accessible to everyone and allows you to get away from the tourist areas surrounding the 2 lakes. A total immersion at over 1000 meters of altitude in the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park.

Lake Eracina at Covadonga in the European Peaks
Lake Eracina
Lake Eracina at Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Mountain cow at Covadonga in the European Peaks
Mina de Buferrera to Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Mine of Buferrera
Lake Enol at Covadonga in the Peaks of Europe
Lake Enol

Our bivouac spot in Covadonga 🏕️

Parking 3, located at the entrance to the village of Covadonga, proves a convenient option for motorhomes, camper vans and rooftop tents. Granted, it doesn't boast charm, but it offers the advantage of being free in the off-season and in the immediate vicinity of the Covadonga basilica, accessible on foot in a few minutes.

Day 7 – Trip to Cangas de Onis, the Fitu viewpoint and night by the Atlantic Ocean

Cangas de Onís

We discovered Cangas de Onis and all its activity the previous evening to find a still-open supermarket in the area. At the foot of the Picos de Europa National Park, it also includes a rich cultural heritage. We stopped there for lunch to eat and form our own opinion about this tourist town.

We had dinner at La Fábrika and a big fail, we did not appreciate it at all (both the food and the service). To comfort ourselves, we gave in to an artisanal ice cream at Cremela. The flavors were excellent, we totally recommend the place for a sweet break. Ice cream cone in hand, we strolled through the streets of Cangas de Onis to the famous Roman bridge or the Puentón.

The Fitu viewpoint

The Mirador del Fitu is a must-see in the region, where you can observe a 360° panorama from its old concrete watchtower. From there, you can see the Sueve Nature Reserve, the Ponga Nature Park, the Picos de Europa National Park, as well as the coast with the villages of Ribadesella, Caravia, Colunga and Villaviciosa. Needless to say, the view must be spectacular!

We had spotted a park4night spot to spend the night there and do the combo: sunset, starry sky, sunrise. Unfortunately, there was a sporting event that day and the road was closed until 9 pm. So we sadly missed our chance for the mirador del Fitu.

Moniello Recreation Area

After the failure of the Mirador de la Fitu, we found a spot to spend the night on the Asturias coast. Welcome to the Moniello recreational area! At the end of it, there is a small gravel parking lot where it is allowed to spend the night facing the sea. A popular spot if we consider the number of vans that joined us during the evening. And we understand why! We are on the edge of a protected area that offers several hiking trails to explore the surrounding cliffs. We were treated to beautiful colors at the end of the day and at dawn, a sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean, nothing more magical ✨

Recreational area of Moniello in a rooftop tent
Recreational area of Moniello
Recreation area of Moniello

Our bivouac spot in Moniello 🏕️

Located by the sea, the Moniello recreation area is perfect for falling asleep lulled by the sound of the waves. Be sure to come early, even in the off-season, as spaces are popular.

📍  Our sleeping spot in Moniello

Day 8 – Playon de Bayas, Cudillero and Cabo Vidio

Playon de Bayas

Nothing beats settling down on a deserted beach to start the day! At Playon de Bayas, the perfect surf waves and dark sand stretch for several kilometers of beach, meaning you can easily find space without having to stick close to your beach neighbor.

Along the way, don't hesitate to stop at the viewpoint to enjoy a magnificent panorama of Payon de Bayas and Playa Requexinos. The Google point is right here.

Playa Requexinos
Playa Requexinos
Playa Requexinos
Panorama from the Mirador

Practical information

🅿️  Free on-site parking here.

🚿  Public showers

Cudillero

One of the images that comes back most when talking about Asturias is the small fishing village of Cudillero. The particularity of this historical village is to be in a bowl facing the sea. We spent the beginning of the afternoon strolling through the narrow streets and finding the best viewpoints over the village. We give you all the information about Cudillero in the article below.

Cape Vidio

We stopped briefly at Cabo Vidio to enjoy the exceptional views of the surrounding cliffs and Pena Doria beach and Cueva beach. There are several exceptional viewpoints in the area, Kevmrc Travel has listed them in an article. The light at Cabo Vidio is even more beautiful as the sun sets.

Cabo Vidio in the Asturias

One night at the Antiguo Casino Hotel de Pravia

Small exception to the rooftop tent for this last night in Asturias. We found a lovely boutique hotel in Pravia located inland. A comfortable night (long live hot water and toilets) in the heart of this historic city. Our charming room at the Antiguo Casino Hotel looked directly onto the Santa María la Mayor church.

View availabilities
Boutique Hotel, Old Casino in Pravia, Asturias
Boutique Hotel Ancient Casino in Pravia in the Asturias
Boutique Hotel, Old Casino, in Pravia, Asturias

Practical information

💸  From 83€ per night for a double room
🥐  Full breakfast included in the price

🅿️  Free parking in front of the hotel

🔍  Info & Reservations to find on Booking

Day 9 – Mirador Punta de la Negra, Navarre

Our road trip in Northern Spain is drawing to a close. After 6 hours of driving and crossing several regions, we find ourselves back in the Pyrenees, with the desert landscapes and the heat.

For the 10th day, a visit to the famous Bardenas Reales desert awaits us. We find a spot on park4night (truly the best ally for your road trips in a rooftop tent, van, or campervan) in the area to be near the park. After 4 kilometers of tracks, we arrive at the Mirador Punta de la Negra. We are alone, except for a few vultures dancing in the sky, as the sun gently sets over the valley, offering us an incredibly pure orange sky.

Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Vulture in flight
Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Mirador Punta de la Negra in Navarre in the north of Spain
Viewpoint Punta de la Negra at night in Navarre in the north of Spain
Viewpoint Punta de la Negra at night in Navarre in the north of Spain

OUR SPOT OF CAMPING in the desert of the Bardenas 🏕️

Camping overnight in the Bardenas Reales is forbidden, so we found a spot on the edge of this beautiful natural park. The path to get there is a 4-kilometer dirt track, but totally doable without a 4x4. We were the only ones at this spot for the night.

 

📍  Our campsite at Mirador Punta de la Negra

Day 10 – Visit to the Bardenas Reales Desert

Getting up early, we weren't expecting the day that would follow. After breakfast, we pack up the tent like every morning. Well, almost, this time the car keys stayed inside the tent. Quick, we open it up, grab the keys, and close it again. This time it's the right one! It took us almost an hour to reach the Visitor Center of the Bardenas Reales and the entrance to the most beautiful part, Lower White. The explanations are given, the park map is taken, the adventure can begin!

By the way, we devoted a whole article to it, with details of all the spots to stop in the Lower White of the Bardenas Reales.

Where to sleep in the Bardena desert 🏕️

Camping overnight in the Bardenas Reales is forbidden, so we continued north to a spot near the Ermita de Santo Domingo. Accessible only by tracks (no 4x4 needed), we spent a peaceful night under the stars.

🏕 Our camping spot at the Ermita de Santo Domingo

Thank you for reaching this point! We loved our road trip in northern Spain. A region that is still preserved from mass tourism and where it's easy to get off the beaten path. We hope this article will inspire you to visit Spain. Don't hesitate to leave us a small comment if you have any further questions or simply to tell us if you liked the article 😉

Thanks to WOLO Outdoors for lending us the tent for the duration of our stay.

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